Hindus reclaim 5,000 years of history
By restoring temples in the Muslim region of Kashmir, the Pandit
community is also preserving its past. Andrew Buncombe reports
community is also preserving its past. Andrew Buncombe reports
The Guardian, UK
Monday, April 18, 2011
Monday, April 18, 2011
[Caption] A Hindu worships in Shrinagar
At a Hindu temple in the centre of Shrinagar, Sanjay Tickoo scattered
petals, lit a candle and quietly voiced the words of a prayer. He
then stepped backwards, slid shut a metal grille and carefully
locked-up the premises with a sturdy padlock.
petals, lit a candle and quietly voiced the words of a prayer. He
then stepped backwards, slid shut a metal grille and carefully
locked-up the premises with a sturdy padlock.
Twenty five years ago, Mr Tickoo's actions would have been
unremarkable. Though the Kashmir valley has for centuries had a
Muslim majority, its Hindu population -- commonly known as Pandits --
were always an integral part of the community. Some Hindus claim
their history here dates back thousands of years.
unremarkable. Though the Kashmir valley has for centuries had a
Muslim majority, its Hindu population -- commonly known as Pandits --
were always an integral part of the community. Some Hindus claim
their history here dates back thousands of years.
When a separatist militancy gathered pace two decades ago, up to
400,000 Hindus either fled or were driven out. Many people were
killed and most of their properties and temples were sold, destroyed
or taken over by the security forces who had been sent in to counter
the militants.
400,000 Hindus either fled or were driven out. Many people were
killed and most of their properties and temples were sold, destroyed
or taken over by the security forces who had been sent in to counter
the militants.
But over the last couple of years, something special has been
happening in Kashmir. Mr Tickoo and other members of the small Hindu
population that remained have set about restoring the temples,
shrines and other sacred places. He claims several dozen such places
have been repaired or reactivated.
happening in Kashmir. Mr Tickoo and other members of the small Hindu
population that remained have set about restoring the temples,
shrines and other sacred places. He claims several dozen such places
have been repaired or reactivated.
"After the mass exodus of the Pandits, around 98 per cent of the
temples were not attended. Only 23 temples have remained in constant
use," said 42-year-old Mr Tickoo, president of the Kashmiri Pandit
Sangarsh Samiti, an NGO.
temples were not attended. Only 23 temples have remained in constant
use," said 42-year-old Mr Tickoo, president of the Kashmiri Pandit
Sangarsh Samiti, an NGO.
"We are doing it to improve Kashmiri society. But when we say we have
a 5,000-year history in Kashmir ... the history belongs to me only
because of my presence in the valley. My identity is directly linked
to the temples. If they disappear I cannot claim we have a 5,000-year
history in the valley."
a 5,000-year history in Kashmir ... the history belongs to me only
because of my presence in the valley. My identity is directly linked
to the temples. If they disappear I cannot claim we have a 5,000-year
history in the valley."
The plight of Kashmir's Hindus is one of the overlooked tragedies of
south Asia. While Kashmir's Muslim population has attracted
international attention for its long and often violent struggle for
autonomy, which has resulted in the Indian authorities dispatching
hundreds of thousands of troops and paramilitaries, the Pandits are
often forgotten, even in their own country. Today, it is estimated
there are fewer than 4,000 still here in the valley.
south Asia. While Kashmir's Muslim population has attracted
international attention for its long and often violent struggle for
autonomy, which has resulted in the Indian authorities dispatching
hundreds of thousands of troops and paramilitaries, the Pandits are
often forgotten, even in their own country. Today, it is estimated
there are fewer than 4,000 still here in the valley.
The state and federal authorities insist they are doing what they can
to help those Hindus who want to return and some job schemes and
housing projects are under way. But after 20 years away from the
valley, many are anxious about such a move -- concerned about
security, finding a livelihood and how their children might get on.
In cities such as Delhi and Jammu, Pandit communities struggle to
keep their customs and traditions alive.
to help those Hindus who want to return and some job schemes and
housing projects are under way. But after 20 years away from the
valley, many are anxious about such a move -- concerned about
security, finding a livelihood and how their children might get on.
In cities such as Delhi and Jammu, Pandit communities struggle to
keep their customs and traditions alive.
Some have sought to portray the pre-militancy relationship between
the Hindus and Muslims as one of gentle harmony. Others say that
friendships and interactions were more likely at an individual level
than between groups and that the situation was sometimes tense.
the Hindus and Muslims as one of gentle harmony. Others say that
friendships and interactions were more likely at an individual level
than between groups and that the situation was sometimes tense.
"Tension had always existed between the two communities. Pandits were
used as the administrative class and were better educated," said Dr
Siddiq Wahid, an activist and former vice-chancellor of Kashmir's
Islamic University of Science & Technology.
used as the administrative class and were better educated," said Dr
Siddiq Wahid, an activist and former vice-chancellor of Kashmir's
Islamic University of Science & Technology.
Many senior figures within the Muslim community now say they regret
the forced exodus of the Hindus. Mr Tickoo said his project to
restore the temples involved working with Muslims who lived in the
neighbourhoods where the buildings were located.
the forced exodus of the Hindus. Mr Tickoo said his project to
restore the temples involved working with Muslims who lived in the
neighbourhoods where the buildings were located.
For instance, the temple in Shrinagar where he performed the ritual
prayer, which is next to a Hindu school and was reopened in January
2010, has an elderly Muslim guard who helped put out a fire that
raged in 1994. "We hope the temple's glory slowly comes back," said
75-year-old Mohammad Bhatt, who still keeps watch over the building.
prayer, which is next to a Hindu school and was reopened in January
2010, has an elderly Muslim guard who helped put out a fire that
raged in 1994. "We hope the temple's glory slowly comes back," said
75-year-old Mohammad Bhatt, who still keeps watch over the building.
In some cases, Mr Tickoo and his supporters have resorted to hit-and-
run techniques. Last year, they entered a Hindu complex in the city's
Soura neighbourhood, which had been empty for a long time and was
partly flooded, and lit a ritual fire to "reactivate" the temple.
"Some people came in here and lit a fire, but the temple has not been
reopened," a local man, Imtiaz Mohammed, said as evening fell across
the city.
run techniques. Last year, they entered a Hindu complex in the city's
Soura neighbourhood, which had been empty for a long time and was
partly flooded, and lit a ritual fire to "reactivate" the temple.
"Some people came in here and lit a fire, but the temple has not been
reopened," a local man, Imtiaz Mohammed, said as evening fell across
the city.
The challenge Mr Tickoo and others face is underscored by the fact
that the 23 temples which have been active since 1989, when the
militancy broke out, have units of armed paramilitaries living
inside, behind barbed wire, to protect the buildings.
that the 23 temples which have been active since 1989, when the
militancy broke out, have units of armed paramilitaries living
inside, behind barbed wire, to protect the buildings.
Security forces have been at the 200-year-old Ganesha temple in the
Ganpatyar neighbourhood for more than 20 years. "There is no limit to
the importance of this temple," said Kuldeep Ambardar, a government
official who left Shrinagar 20 years ago for Jammu, and who was
visiting with his family.
Ganpatyar neighbourhood for more than 20 years. "There is no limit to
the importance of this temple," said Kuldeep Ambardar, a government
official who left Shrinagar 20 years ago for Jammu, and who was
visiting with his family.
CL Bhat, who heads another Hindu organisation in the city, said
relations between the two communities had improved -- "the government
has put the troops in the temples -- not us".
relations between the two communities had improved -- "the government
has put the troops in the temples -- not us".
Yet he says the future of the valley's Hindu population remained
parlous. Despite efforts to encourage people to return, numbers
continued to fall. "We are trying to stop the decline of the
population. But the children who are educated want jobs and they are
leaving for Delhi or other places. The numbers are going down," he
added.
parlous. Despite efforts to encourage people to return, numbers
continued to fall. "We are trying to stop the decline of the
population. But the children who are educated want jobs and they are
leaving for Delhi or other places. The numbers are going down," he
added.
Those involved in the project to restore the temples say they have no
alternative but to continue their efforts. One of the most impressive
reconstructions is at the Kathleshwar temple, alongside the Jhelum
river that cuts through the city.
alternative but to continue their efforts. One of the most impressive
reconstructions is at the Kathleshwar temple, alongside the Jhelum
river that cuts through the city.
On a recent morning, visitors were welcomed with warm milk and
almonds by Sudershan Das, a shaven-headed priest of the International
Society for Krishna Consciousness.
almonds by Sudershan Das, a shaven-headed priest of the International
Society for Krishna Consciousness.
Mr Das grew up in the traditionally Hindu neighbourhood then
travelled for 20 years before returning to Kashmir to rebuild the
temple in 2007. Today it sits amid elegantly carved three-storey
wooden houses, vacated by their Hindu owners and now occupied by the
ubiquitous security forces.
travelled for 20 years before returning to Kashmir to rebuild the
temple in 2007. Today it sits amid elegantly carved three-storey
wooden houses, vacated by their Hindu owners and now occupied by the
ubiquitous security forces.
"When I came here, the place was a shambles. We have rebuilt it,"
said Mr Das. Sitting on a rush mat, looking out over a view which
ended in snow-capped mountains, he detailed a story of how, when the
area was abandoned, the temple was taken over by hooligans who tried
to smash the stone lingam, which represents the Hindu god Shiva.
"They used an axe but it broke the axe. Five days later that person
died," he said emphatically.
said Mr Das. Sitting on a rush mat, looking out over a view which
ended in snow-capped mountains, he detailed a story of how, when the
area was abandoned, the temple was taken over by hooligans who tried
to smash the stone lingam, which represents the Hindu god Shiva.
"They used an axe but it broke the axe. Five days later that person
died," he said emphatically.
As The Independent was leaving the temple, Archana Ganjoo was making
her way in, navigating past the empty wooden houses. Ms Ganjoo said
she had lived in the neighbourhood when she was a girl but that her
family had left for Jammu in 1989, like so many others. This was her
first time back.
her way in, navigating past the empty wooden houses. Ms Ganjoo said
she had lived in the neighbourhood when she was a girl but that her
family had left for Jammu in 1989, like so many others. This was her
first time back.
As she looked up at the quiet houses, she reeled off the names of the
families who had once occupied them and pointed to the location of a
primary school she had attended. "It feels like I am back. I feel
good," she said.
families who had once occupied them and pointed to the location of a
primary school she had attended. "It feels like I am back. I feel
good," she said.
Then she made her way towards Mr Das and his temple and stepped
inside to pray.
inside to pray.
A disputed region
* Most of the Hindus, or Kashmiri Pandits, who fled the Kashmir
valley, left in a matter of months between the end of 1989 and 1990
when an armed militancy by elements of the Muslim community demanding
autonomy gathered pace.
valley, left in a matter of months between the end of 1989 and 1990
when an armed militancy by elements of the Muslim community demanding
autonomy gathered pace.
* Many took the decision to leave after certain mosques broadcast
demands for them to quit and newspapers printed similar messages.
demands for them to quit and newspapers printed similar messages.
* Gradually, the leadership of the Muslim community has accepted its
responsibility for the exodus.
responsibility for the exodus.
* Mirwaiz Umar Farooq, leader of a coalition of separatist
organisations, the All Parties Hurriyat Conference, said: "We cannot
deny that they had to leave the valley in very difficult
circumstances at a time when there was a lot of chaos."
organisations, the All Parties Hurriyat Conference, said: "We cannot
deny that they had to leave the valley in very difficult
circumstances at a time when there was a lot of chaos."
* Farooq Abdullah, a former chief minister of the state and currently
a federal minister in Delhi, said earlier this year: "It is our fault
[that] the Kashmiri Hindus have been made homeless and forced to live
outside."
a federal minister in Delhi, said earlier this year: "It is our fault
[that] the Kashmiri Hindus have been made homeless and forced to live
outside."
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